Restaurant Review: Apicius, in Paris France

APICIUS
Review by Alex Miles
Magical is the first word that comes to mind. How could I say otherwise? Just walking on to the grounds of this formidable Château smack dab in the center of Paris is an unforgettable experience in itself. With a long driveway, a “voiturier”, and an entrance that takes me back to times gone by. Times gone by that I’d never seen but this décor opens up the gates to my imagined memory.
There were several men at the door to warmly greet us. The only feminine presence was the person who took our coats. Though these men were quite courteous there seemed to be lacking a bit of warmth that some women transmit with graciousness.
The interior décor was grand; grey/beige walls with large paintings and works of art hung on walls that climbed to a height of more than 12 feet. In spite of the fine wines we drank (a 2001Guigal Hermitage and a Banyuls 2007) the ambiance was sober, dignified and comfortable.
Our initial glass of Laurent Perrier went down easily with the nibbles of mushroom gougère, marinated tuna in a twisted porcelain spoon and a mini oyster with shallot vinaigrette. My companion ordered the langoustine combo; tempura, tartar and roasted while I had the seasonal vegetable plate. Though the veggies were mostly cooked to perfection I had trouble identifying their seasonality. Instead of getting the Fall/Winter roots like rutabaga, parsnips, roasted beets and Jerusalem artichoke, I was served green beans, spinach, small carrots, tiny turnips, sugar peas, cherry tomatoes, leeks and a lonely artichoke half. The thinly disguised liquid which served as a sauce did not make me say Wow. It was simply poured there like a nondescript pond with nowhere to go.
A surprise gift came from the kitchen. A porcini cream with a white truffle sabayon was presented in a small elegant porcelain bowl with a few nearly transparent slices of the fragrant Italian fungus. We inhaled this perfumed treat delightfully.
The breast of Mallard duck with foie gras was a highlight. Perfectly tender, warm and cooked to a rosy pink this seasonal game allowed us the privilege of enjoying the best Autumn has to offer in the finest French restaurants. The accompanying mashed potatoes were laced with a hint of black truffle juice.
The chocolate and pistachio soufflés were light and airy as soufflés often are. But that’s all I can say, light and airy. They seemed to lack some of the substance that outstanding soufflés are made of.
All in all the experience at this palace of fine dining, or should I say Château, was something to remember. I would be most pleased to return at other times and taste their seasonal adaptability.
Prices range from about 75€ per person to 150€ and better. Unfortunately there is no menu for those who are looking a prix fixe at more affordable rates.
Apicius , 20 rue d’Artois 75008 Paris www.restaurant-apicius.com