Restaurant Review: Apicius, in Paris France

APICIUS
Review by Alex Miles
Magical is the first word that comes to mind. How could I say otherwise? Just walking on to the grounds of this formidable Château smack dab in the center of Paris is an unforgettable experience in itself. With a long driveway, a “voiturier”, and an entrance that takes me back to times gone by. Times gone by that I’d never seen but this décor opens up the gates to my imagined memory.
There were several men at the door to warmly greet us. The only feminine presence was the person who took our coats. Though these men were quite courteous there seemed to be lacking a bit of warmth that some women transmit with graciousness.
The interior décor was grand; grey/beige walls with large paintings and works of art hung on walls that climbed to a height of more than 12 feet. In spite of the fine wines we drank (a 2001Guigal Hermitage and a Banyuls 2007) the ambiance was sober, dignified and comfortable.
Our initial glass of Laurent Perrier went down easily with the nibbles of mushroom gougère, marinated tuna in a twisted porcelain spoon and a mini oyster with shallot vinaigrette. My companion ordered the langoustine combo; tempura, tartar and roasted while I had the seasonal vegetable plate. Though the veggies were mostly cooked to perfection I had trouble identifying their seasonality. Instead of getting the Fall/Winter roots like rutabaga, parsnips, roasted beets and Jerusalem artichoke, I was served green beans, spinach, small carrots, tiny turnips, sugar peas, cherry tomatoes, leeks and a lonely artichoke half. The thinly disguised liquid which served as a sauce did not make me say Wow. It was simply poured there like a nondescript pond with nowhere to go.
A surprise gift came from the kitchen. A porcini cream with a white truffle sabayon was presented in a small elegant porcelain bowl with a few nearly transparent slices of the fragrant Italian fungus. We inhaled this perfumed treat delightfully.
The breast of Mallard duck with foie gras was a highlight. Perfectly tender, warm and cooked to a rosy pink this seasonal game allowed us the privilege of enjoying the best Autumn has to offer in the finest French restaurants. The accompanying mashed potatoes were laced with a hint of black truffle juice.
The chocolate and pistachio soufflés were light and airy as soufflés often are. But that’s all I can say, light and airy. They seemed to lack some of the substance that outstanding soufflés are made of.
All in all the experience at this palace of fine dining, or should I say Château, was something to remember. I would be most pleased to return at other times and taste their seasonal adaptability.
Prices range from about 75€ per person to 150€ and better. Unfortunately there is no menu for those who are looking a prix fixe at more affordable rates.
Apicius , 20 rue d’Artois 75008 Paris www.restaurant-apicius.com

Food Camp Dijon

I had the unique pleasure to participate in something new, a Food Camp.
What is a Food Camp? Well, it's a bunch of people who get together who are interested in food...on different levels. Yes, there were people who made food while others ate, people who spoke about their food blogs, private people, public people, business people and a lot of kids who had a great time playing with food. That part was a bit campy...and colorful and fun with multi-colored cupcakes.
Something happens when people who are interested in food get together. Yes, they talk about food but the the subject of food, is in fact, the subject of life and relationships. Food and its context is a thriving and exciting phenomenon which has the whole world chatting, cooking and sharing. It's the sharing and exchanging by curious people that makes all this possible.
Food is not just what you eat, its molecules, nutrients and all those tiny things you cant' pick up with a fork which are of course important but that's not the whole story. It's not just what you eat that counts but how, when and with whom you share the food.
People have always shared their food. It's a only recently that people eat alone or on the run. There's always been a pecking order of who eats what first which in many places around the planet is still the rule. Nomad eating is a new phenomenon which reflects our fast food culture...and in some sense, the way I'm writing these rambling notes.
It's two in the morning and I am rambling but that's ok. This is my frist attempt in a long while to put something on this site in a long while. I hope to keep it up so that you'll be interested to read what I have to say and the things I'l have to show you. It's the unknown and barely perceptible you with whom I want to commmunicate. All this new fangled, ever changing technological world baffles and intrigues me. If I can figure out how this all works, I will do this regularly and perhaps the amorphous you will take shape and want to share with me your thoughts, queries and comments.
It's now 3 AM and the best thing forme to do is go back to bed...and perhaps tomorrow I may something else to say!
Alex