Victor & Gustav
Restaurant Review by Alex Miles
Vins des Rues, (« Street Wine »), has transformed itself. Formerly a fine wine bar with good food, it has become a fine wine bar with great food.
A metamorphose with new decorations, grey with splashes of red, and a long couch with cushions that stretches from the entrance all the way back to the kitchen entrance. Opposite this comfortable row of seats is the bar where you can enjoy a glass of your favorite breuvage on a stool or standing.
The waitress and the boss welcomed us aimiably with a warm smile. We drank a glass of local Chardonnay which set the ambiance for the rest.
We dispensed with the usual first dish and we all ordered the daily special; Jaret de veau, (veal shank). Our main dish came out quickly from the kitchen on an oblong white plate surrounded by a swirl of squash purée & a bit of fresh greenery on the side. The salad was seasoned perfectly with a light balsamic vinager and a hint of white truffle. We could tell right away that someone in the kitchen cared about what they were doing.
I tasted the squash swirl and delighted in its slight tartness which counter balanced the sweetness of the sauce that surrounded the chunk of veal. In order for a veal shank to be tender it has to cook for a long while or else it’ll be tough and stringy. This voluptuous veal just melted in my mouth. It was clear that it was slow cooked at a low temperature. The veal I enjoyed in Dijon was far better than meal I’d had in Paris at a 2 Star palace.
Though there may be no stars in the future for this Victor & Gustav because of it size and neighborhood allure, it doesn’t mean you can’t have a fine and friendly experience at one of Dijon’s newest eateries. But I will let you in on a secret…the new menu is signed and conceived by none other than our Michelin stared chefs of Prénois fame, Nicolas Isnard & Davis Le Comte, of l’Auberge de la Charme.
Nicolas & David have built up an excellent reputation for their restaurant which is just 10 minutes from Dijon. They are using their expertise to offer very good food at a price without pretense. The luncheon meal at V&G was only 12.90€ with desert….which I forgot to mention was a light and delicious blend of oranges in a barely sweet syrup.
When you’re in Dijon take a look at Victor & Gustav*, sit down and enjoy one of life’s little pleasures without putting a dent in your pocketbook. When you want to spend more time at your meal and sample some of the fineries of French cuisine, which is why you came to France in the first place, go L’Auberge de la Charme. Either way, the route to pleasure leads to Dijon.
*Victor Baltard and Gustav Eiffel were great engineers who made their architectural mark in 19th century France by building new, never seen before steel structures, one of which houses the marché of Dijon. Gustav is a native son of this capital of the Dukes of Burgundy.
lundi 27 décembre 2010
mercredi 17 novembre 2010
Restaurant Review: Apicius, in Paris France
APICIUS
Review by Alex Miles
Magical is the first word that comes to mind. How could I say otherwise? Just walking on to the grounds of this formidable Château smack dab in the center of Paris is an unforgettable experience in itself. With a long driveway, a “voiturier”, and an entrance that takes me back to times gone by. Times gone by that I’d never seen but this décor opens up the gates to my imagined memory.
There were several men at the door to warmly greet us. The only feminine presence was the person who took our coats. Though these men were quite courteous there seemed to be lacking a bit of warmth that some women transmit with graciousness.
The interior décor was grand; grey/beige walls with large paintings and works of art hung on walls that climbed to a height of more than 12 feet. In spite of the fine wines we drank (a 2001Guigal Hermitage and a Banyuls 2007) the ambiance was sober, dignified and comfortable.
Our initial glass of Laurent Perrier went down easily with the nibbles of mushroom gougère, marinated tuna in a twisted porcelain spoon and a mini oyster with shallot vinaigrette. My companion ordered the langoustine combo; tempura, tartar and roasted while I had the seasonal vegetable plate. Though the veggies were mostly cooked to perfection I had trouble identifying their seasonality. Instead of getting the Fall/Winter roots like rutabaga, parsnips, roasted beets and Jerusalem artichoke, I was served green beans, spinach, small carrots, tiny turnips, sugar peas, cherry tomatoes, leeks and a lonely artichoke half. The thinly disguised liquid which served as a sauce did not make me say Wow. It was simply poured there like a nondescript pond with nowhere to go.
A surprise gift came from the kitchen. A porcini cream with a white truffle sabayon was presented in a small elegant porcelain bowl with a few nearly transparent slices of the fragrant Italian fungus. We inhaled this perfumed treat delightfully.
The breast of Mallard duck with foie gras was a highlight. Perfectly tender, warm and cooked to a rosy pink this seasonal game allowed us the privilege of enjoying the best Autumn has to offer in the finest French restaurants. The accompanying mashed potatoes were laced with a hint of black truffle juice.
The chocolate and pistachio soufflés were light and airy as soufflés often are. But that’s all I can say, light and airy. They seemed to lack some of the substance that outstanding soufflés are made of.
All in all the experience at this palace of fine dining, or should I say Château, was something to remember. I would be most pleased to return at other times and taste their seasonal adaptability.
Prices range from about 75€ per person to 150€ and better. Unfortunately there is no menu for those who are looking a prix fixe at more affordable rates.
Apicius , 20 rue d’Artois 75008 Paris www.restaurant-apicius.com
Review by Alex Miles
Magical is the first word that comes to mind. How could I say otherwise? Just walking on to the grounds of this formidable Château smack dab in the center of Paris is an unforgettable experience in itself. With a long driveway, a “voiturier”, and an entrance that takes me back to times gone by. Times gone by that I’d never seen but this décor opens up the gates to my imagined memory.
There were several men at the door to warmly greet us. The only feminine presence was the person who took our coats. Though these men were quite courteous there seemed to be lacking a bit of warmth that some women transmit with graciousness.
The interior décor was grand; grey/beige walls with large paintings and works of art hung on walls that climbed to a height of more than 12 feet. In spite of the fine wines we drank (a 2001Guigal Hermitage and a Banyuls 2007) the ambiance was sober, dignified and comfortable.
Our initial glass of Laurent Perrier went down easily with the nibbles of mushroom gougère, marinated tuna in a twisted porcelain spoon and a mini oyster with shallot vinaigrette. My companion ordered the langoustine combo; tempura, tartar and roasted while I had the seasonal vegetable plate. Though the veggies were mostly cooked to perfection I had trouble identifying their seasonality. Instead of getting the Fall/Winter roots like rutabaga, parsnips, roasted beets and Jerusalem artichoke, I was served green beans, spinach, small carrots, tiny turnips, sugar peas, cherry tomatoes, leeks and a lonely artichoke half. The thinly disguised liquid which served as a sauce did not make me say Wow. It was simply poured there like a nondescript pond with nowhere to go.
A surprise gift came from the kitchen. A porcini cream with a white truffle sabayon was presented in a small elegant porcelain bowl with a few nearly transparent slices of the fragrant Italian fungus. We inhaled this perfumed treat delightfully.
The breast of Mallard duck with foie gras was a highlight. Perfectly tender, warm and cooked to a rosy pink this seasonal game allowed us the privilege of enjoying the best Autumn has to offer in the finest French restaurants. The accompanying mashed potatoes were laced with a hint of black truffle juice.
The chocolate and pistachio soufflés were light and airy as soufflés often are. But that’s all I can say, light and airy. They seemed to lack some of the substance that outstanding soufflés are made of.
All in all the experience at this palace of fine dining, or should I say Château, was something to remember. I would be most pleased to return at other times and taste their seasonal adaptability.
Prices range from about 75€ per person to 150€ and better. Unfortunately there is no menu for those who are looking a prix fixe at more affordable rates.
Apicius , 20 rue d’Artois 75008 Paris www.restaurant-apicius.com
dimanche 7 novembre 2010
Food Camp Dijon
I had the unique pleasure to participate in something new, a Food Camp.
What is a Food Camp? Well, it's a bunch of people who get together who are interested in food...on different levels. Yes, there were people who made food while others ate, people who spoke about their food blogs, private people, public people, business people and a lot of kids who had a great time playing with food. That part was a bit campy...and colorful and fun with multi-colored cupcakes.
Something happens when people who are interested in food get together. Yes, they talk about food but the the subject of food, is in fact, the subject of life and relationships. Food and its context is a thriving and exciting phenomenon which has the whole world chatting, cooking and sharing. It's the sharing and exchanging by curious people that makes all this possible.
Food is not just what you eat, its molecules, nutrients and all those tiny things you cant' pick up with a fork which are of course important but that's not the whole story. It's not just what you eat that counts but how, when and with whom you share the food.
People have always shared their food. It's a only recently that people eat alone or on the run. There's always been a pecking order of who eats what first which in many places around the planet is still the rule. Nomad eating is a new phenomenon which reflects our fast food culture...and in some sense, the way I'm writing these rambling notes.
It's two in the morning and I am rambling but that's ok. This is my frist attempt in a long while to put something on this site in a long while. I hope to keep it up so that you'll be interested to read what I have to say and the things I'l have to show you. It's the unknown and barely perceptible you with whom I want to commmunicate. All this new fangled, ever changing technological world baffles and intrigues me. If I can figure out how this all works, I will do this regularly and perhaps the amorphous you will take shape and want to share with me your thoughts, queries and comments.
It's now 3 AM and the best thing forme to do is go back to bed...and perhaps tomorrow I may something else to say!
Alex
What is a Food Camp? Well, it's a bunch of people who get together who are interested in food...on different levels. Yes, there were people who made food while others ate, people who spoke about their food blogs, private people, public people, business people and a lot of kids who had a great time playing with food. That part was a bit campy...and colorful and fun with multi-colored cupcakes.
Something happens when people who are interested in food get together. Yes, they talk about food but the the subject of food, is in fact, the subject of life and relationships. Food and its context is a thriving and exciting phenomenon which has the whole world chatting, cooking and sharing. It's the sharing and exchanging by curious people that makes all this possible.
Food is not just what you eat, its molecules, nutrients and all those tiny things you cant' pick up with a fork which are of course important but that's not the whole story. It's not just what you eat that counts but how, when and with whom you share the food.
People have always shared their food. It's a only recently that people eat alone or on the run. There's always been a pecking order of who eats what first which in many places around the planet is still the rule. Nomad eating is a new phenomenon which reflects our fast food culture...and in some sense, the way I'm writing these rambling notes.
It's two in the morning and I am rambling but that's ok. This is my frist attempt in a long while to put something on this site in a long while. I hope to keep it up so that you'll be interested to read what I have to say and the things I'l have to show you. It's the unknown and barely perceptible you with whom I want to commmunicate. All this new fangled, ever changing technological world baffles and intrigues me. If I can figure out how this all works, I will do this regularly and perhaps the amorphous you will take shape and want to share with me your thoughts, queries and comments.
It's now 3 AM and the best thing forme to do is go back to bed...and perhaps tomorrow I may something else to say!
Alex
vendredi 29 octobre 2010
Private Cooking Classes in France
The day begins at the Market, (le marché), where you get a cooks tour of all the fine fresh products on display. At le marché you will be able to choose your menu, with the help of Alex, from all the ingredients available. Then you go to the kitchen to cook, talk and enjoy. The day begins at 8:30 AM and finishes up at around 4:00 PM.
FRENCH FAMILY FOOD
The cooking course is called “French Family Food”. People love this class because it shows what French people really eat at home. Alex worked with the world famous chef, Gaston Lenôtre, where he did the finest in cooking, catering and baking. He now prefers the more rustic, people friendly approach to making food and will explain clearly in a relaxed atmosphere what French home cooking is all about. The idea is to share with you his experiences in France as well the knowledge he’s attained through working with the top restaurant chefs as well as his own bakeries in New York. Because he has interviewed many of the 3 star chefs in France for his radio show about books and food, he can also recommend the best places to enjoy a fine meal for dinner or lunch.
Alex has become something of a local celebrity on TV, radio, magazines and newspapers, being the only American who is a pastry chef, chef de cuisine and has been a professor and lecturer in the area of the Sociology of Food at various schools and institutions throughout France. So you get not only a cooking lesson but a wide ranging cultural approach to France, the French and their food habits.
CULINARY TOURISM
This is Culinary Tourism at its best where you get the recipes you’ve always wanted and the cultural introduction to the French life style. Alex will answer all your questions about the French and their food without inhibition, frankly and clearly and with bit good humor thrown in for good luck.
Whether your voyage to France is for business or pleasure, or both, you and your travel companion could take the time to learn some cooking techniques and recipes you can bring home with you. You can take a full day seasonal cooking class which includes a starter, main dish and dessert or you can do a full day of pastries which can include doughs, tarts, savory items and even chocolate desserts.
Look at Alex’s résumé* and you will get a glimpse of the man you will cook with. Contact him by e-mail so he can give you all the details of his cooking and baking classes for your French vacation.
CONTACT ALEX: alexmiles47@gmail.com
** Noted in Fodor’s Guide to Travel Experiences in Burgundy
Also see > Teacher, Lecturer, Consultant
Teacher, Lecturer, Consultant
Business, Gastronomy, Sociology, Special Events Management
Domains of Expertise
Teacher Trainer
Definition and elaboration of pedagogical programs
Create training videos
Evaluation and follow up of personnel
Lecturer, jury member for diploma
Classes in Gastronomy and Identity, Sociology and History of Food, Food Safety and Consumer Behavior, Restaurant Business, European Union and International Culture
Manager
Experience in management and human resources
Managed production, sales and distribution personnel
Development and follow through of new ventures
Communication and public relations
Wrote commercial sales manual
Liaison between the American Embassy and the company
Sales
Development of wholesale service
Opened stores in New York City
Managed chain stores and franchises
Collaboration with architects on concept and image
Realized marketing and packaging projects
Pastry Chef
Creation of French bakeries in New York
International desserts at the United Nations
Produced a line of “Light” frozen desserts
Consultant for: Cointreau America, Lenôtre Paris, Chocolat Valrhona, Disneyland Paris, SEB, Cassis Boudier, Danone, Lacanche, Tupperware.
Initiator/Organizer of Special Events
Thanksgiving Dinners for 250 people as a Benefit in several cities in France.
Conference on French and American Culinary Historical Relations at the American Ambassador’s Residence in Paris with food and wine tastings.
4-14 Festival: Celebration of the Music and Food of France and America. World famous musicians and starred chefs from both countries shared their talents with an enthusiastic public in Dijon. www.4-14-festival.org
Public & press relations, raise funds from the public and private sector.
PROFESSIONAL CAREER: 1978 – 2009
Organizer of the 4-14 Festival 2009 in Dijon www.4-14festival.org
Professor and Lecturer: Burgundy School of Business, Dijon; Université de Bourgogne, ENSBANA; ISIPCA; ENSIA; ISAB; EHESS; Sciences Po Paris; Université de Toulouse, CETIA, ERIT; New York University; and the American Embassy in Paris.
Member of Pilot Committees, “Dijon Ville Santé”, for Dijon and “Bien dans Mon Assiette” for the Burgundy region
Culinary instructor in classic French and international cuisines
Researcher for the European Commission on “Animal Welfare”
Research Associate, Sociologie: Université de Toulouse, Mirail
Writer : « Arts & Gastronomie Magazine »
Radio Show Host: interview authors of books about food on RCF Parabole
Sales Trainer: Ecomarketing, Chenôve
Regional Director: Société Cjys, Gevrey-Chambertin
Owner Operator: La Bonne Pâtisserie, New York City
Pastry Chef: United Nations Hotel, New York City
Commercial Administrator: Lenôtre Paris, Plaisir
Sous-Chef & Pastry Chef: Domain Chandon, Yountville, California
EDUCATION:
1983 Certificates in Human Resources Management and Management Communications – ESSEC, France (IMHI, Cornell University)
1982 Certificat D’Aptitude Professionnelle, French Government Certificate in Pastry Arts
Certificat Escoffier- Ecole Hôteliére Jean Drouant, Paris
Certificates in Pastry, Cooking, Catering, etc. Ecole Lenôtre
Bachelor of Arts in Sociology and Education, City University of New York
Publications : « Ces hommes qui cuisinent », éditions Agnès Viénot, 2005, « On Baking », Labensky, (contributor), éditions Pearson, 2005.
Préface « A La Découverte des aliments » de Charreau, Etienne et Ingagriola, Educagri, 2006. « Scènes Gourmandes », J-J Boutaud, (contributor), J-P Rocher, 2006. Articles in « le Bien Public » and « Papilles ».
Birth Date: August 27, 1947 Marital Status: Married
Nationality: American and French
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