mardi 16 octobre 2007
jeudi 9 août 2007
Restaurant Review: Lameloise
Restaurant Review of Lameloise
Chagny, July 26, 2007
By Alex Miles
Dinning in Burgundy is improving all the time. Lameloise, in Chagny, lost his third star two years ago. In astronomy, a shooting star never rises again but in gastronomy, Jacques Lameloise proved the nay Sayers wrong. In 2007 he got back his third and well deserved star much to the delight of his staff and the whole town of Chagny which depends so much on the reputation of this grand restaurant.
The meal we had was a sensorial passage from one taste to another keeping in mind local ingredients and the current culinary evolution in textures, temperatures and colors. The service was respectful and relaxed and the wait staff was attentive without being omnipresent. The décor was intimate, spacious and comfortable. The muted rust red leather chairs, the smooth white walls with stone jutting out here and there, the ample lighting and the large old beams which spanned the ceiling made the atmosphere welcoming as well as distinguished. After all, this is a three star establishment where you wouldn’t expect less.
Jacques Lameloise came out to greet every customer at least once during the dinner. He has a warm smile, an inviting handshake and speaks simply and in a straightforward, jovial manner about his food, his restaurant and his life in Burgundy. He is not the kind of chef who throws temper tantrums and must have his way. He regained his star rating by listening to his staff, making recommendations and encouraging what everyone had been doing right. A third star happens after hard conscientious work, depending on others talents and most of all being passionate about the job at hand.
Our tasting menu allowed us to sample the breadth of Lameloise’s great kitchen acumen. Foie gras came on mango toast with a frothy potato which disappeared as soon as it entered our mouths. Then there was a brochette of snails sitting on a thin slice of daikon radish accompanied by a fresh herb and garlic cream. A slow cooked filet of wild sea bass appeared with a sabayon of wild mushrooms and lightly sautéed chanterelles. The langoustine with risotto and Burgundy truffles was more than a surprise, it was an artistic event. One of the langoustines was sitting on a round toast which was on top of a circle of squid ink. I had great fun swishing the toast around the ink attempting to imitate the fine French artist Soulage. This was all whetted down with a Rully 1ere Cru, 2005, Les Pucelles of Jacques Son.
The meaty part of the meal was a rosy pigeon with large slabs of porcini, (cep) mushrooms, a tomato confit with fried basil and stuffed cabbage. We changed to a red wine at this point, a Santenay, 2004, from René Clair.
Our dessert was a variation on a Victoria pineapple: roasted, sorbet, and chopped with lemon with a fine sablé. An elegant variety of petit fours and chocolates made the coffee service a nibblers’ delight.
The restaurant Lameloise is worth more than a detour; it merits an extended stay to ponder the treasures of this great chef who, with dedication, passion and the love of sharing, has maintained excellence in an arena where few can maintain their status for as long as Jacques Lameloise has.
The lunch menu starts at 95 Euros. The dinner menu begins at 120 Euros. One can order à la carte. One can stay at this fine hotel where rooms start at 150€.
Chagny is just south of Beaune and north of Chalon sur Soâne at the southern end of Burgundy.
Chagny, July 26, 2007
By Alex Miles
Dinning in Burgundy is improving all the time. Lameloise, in Chagny, lost his third star two years ago. In astronomy, a shooting star never rises again but in gastronomy, Jacques Lameloise proved the nay Sayers wrong. In 2007 he got back his third and well deserved star much to the delight of his staff and the whole town of Chagny which depends so much on the reputation of this grand restaurant.
The meal we had was a sensorial passage from one taste to another keeping in mind local ingredients and the current culinary evolution in textures, temperatures and colors. The service was respectful and relaxed and the wait staff was attentive without being omnipresent. The décor was intimate, spacious and comfortable. The muted rust red leather chairs, the smooth white walls with stone jutting out here and there, the ample lighting and the large old beams which spanned the ceiling made the atmosphere welcoming as well as distinguished. After all, this is a three star establishment where you wouldn’t expect less.
Jacques Lameloise came out to greet every customer at least once during the dinner. He has a warm smile, an inviting handshake and speaks simply and in a straightforward, jovial manner about his food, his restaurant and his life in Burgundy. He is not the kind of chef who throws temper tantrums and must have his way. He regained his star rating by listening to his staff, making recommendations and encouraging what everyone had been doing right. A third star happens after hard conscientious work, depending on others talents and most of all being passionate about the job at hand.
Our tasting menu allowed us to sample the breadth of Lameloise’s great kitchen acumen. Foie gras came on mango toast with a frothy potato which disappeared as soon as it entered our mouths. Then there was a brochette of snails sitting on a thin slice of daikon radish accompanied by a fresh herb and garlic cream. A slow cooked filet of wild sea bass appeared with a sabayon of wild mushrooms and lightly sautéed chanterelles. The langoustine with risotto and Burgundy truffles was more than a surprise, it was an artistic event. One of the langoustines was sitting on a round toast which was on top of a circle of squid ink. I had great fun swishing the toast around the ink attempting to imitate the fine French artist Soulage. This was all whetted down with a Rully 1ere Cru, 2005, Les Pucelles of Jacques Son.
The meaty part of the meal was a rosy pigeon with large slabs of porcini, (cep) mushrooms, a tomato confit with fried basil and stuffed cabbage. We changed to a red wine at this point, a Santenay, 2004, from René Clair.
Our dessert was a variation on a Victoria pineapple: roasted, sorbet, and chopped with lemon with a fine sablé. An elegant variety of petit fours and chocolates made the coffee service a nibblers’ delight.
The restaurant Lameloise is worth more than a detour; it merits an extended stay to ponder the treasures of this great chef who, with dedication, passion and the love of sharing, has maintained excellence in an arena where few can maintain their status for as long as Jacques Lameloise has.
The lunch menu starts at 95 Euros. The dinner menu begins at 120 Euros. One can order à la carte. One can stay at this fine hotel where rooms start at 150€.
Chagny is just south of Beaune and north of Chalon sur Soâne at the southern end of Burgundy.
dimanche 5 août 2007
Summer in Burgundy
Well, here I am in Burgundy, Dijon to be exact, on a beautiful warm sunny day. We have nothing to be envious of the South of France, because the South is comming to us...with Global Warming Dijon will have weather like Nice in the next 50 years...who knows!
But all politics and kddin aside it's great to be here and finally write a not on this blog of mine. As I said from the outset I wasn't sure what I was going to talk about...and I still haven't figured that out yet but I've been to a few restaurants in Burgundy and I will post mty reviews of them soon. Some good, some very good and some not worth the money or the trip.
I will write up a brief note about three restaurants tonight and you tell me what you think.
A Bientôt,
Alex
But all politics and kddin aside it's great to be here and finally write a not on this blog of mine. As I said from the outset I wasn't sure what I was going to talk about...and I still haven't figured that out yet but I've been to a few restaurants in Burgundy and I will post mty reviews of them soon. Some good, some very good and some not worth the money or the trip.
I will write up a brief note about three restaurants tonight and you tell me what you think.
A Bientôt,
Alex
mercredi 6 juin 2007
samedi 2 juin 2007
My Résumé My CV
Alex Miles
3 rue de Monastir tel: (33) (0)3 80 74 03 63
21000 Dijon tel: (33) (0)6 33 69 62 99
France e-mail: alexmiles47@gmail.com
TEACHER, LECTURER, CONSULTANT, COOKING INSTRUCTOR
Business, Gastronomy, Sociology
Domains of Expertise
Teacher Trainer
- Definition and elaboration of pedagogical programs
- Create training videos
- Evaluation and follow up of personnel
- Lecturer, jury member for diploma
- Classes in Gastronomy and Identity, Sociology and History of Food, Food Safety and Consumer Behavior, Restaurant Business, European Union and International Culture
- Experience in management and human resources
- Managed production, sales and distribution personnel
- Development and follow through of new ventures
- Communication and public relations
- Wrote commercial sales manual
- Liaison between the American Embassy and the company
- Development of wholesale service
- Opened stores in New York City
- Managed chain stores and franchises
- Collaboration with architects on concept and image
- Realized marketing and packaging projects
- Creation of French bakeries in New York
- International desserts at the United Nations
- Produced a line of “Light” frozen desserts
- Consultant for: Cointreau America, Lenôtre Paris, Chocolat Valrhona, Disneyland Paris, SEB, Cassis Boudier, Danone, Lacanche, Tupperware.
- Professor and Lecturer: Burgundy School of Business, Dijon; Université de Bourgogne, ENSBANA; ISIPCA; ENSIA; ISAB; EHESS; Sciences Po Paris; Université de Toulouse, CETIA, ERIT; New York University; and the American Embassy in Paris.
- Member of Pilot Committees, “Dijon Ville Santé”, for Dijon and “Bien dans Mon Assiette” for the Burgundy region
- Culinary instructor in classic French and international cuisines
- Researcher for the European Commission on “Animal Welfare”
- Research Associate, Sociologie: Université de Toulouse, Mirail
- Radio Show Host: interview authors of books about food on RCF Parabole
- Sales Trainer: Ecomarketing, Chenôve
- Regional Director: Société Cjys, Gevrey-Chambertin
- Owner Operator: La Bonne Pâtisserie, New York City
- Pastry Chef: United Nations Hotel, New York City
- Commercial Administrator: Lenôtre Paris, Plaisir
- Sous-Chef & Pastry Chef: Domain Chandon, Yountville, California
EDUCATION:
1983 Certificates in Human Resources Management and Management Communications – ESSEC, France (IMHI, Cornell University)
1982 Certificat D’Aptitude Professionnelle, French Government Certificate in Pastry Arts
1982 Certificat Escoffier- Ecole Hôteliére Jean Drouant, Paris
1980 Certificates in Pastry, Cooking, Catering, etc. Ecole Lenôtre
1970 Bachelor of Arts in Sociology and Education, City University of New York
Publications : « Ces hommes qui cuisinent », éditions Agnès Viénot, 2005, « On Baking », Labensky, (contributor), éditions Pearson, 2005.
Préface « A La Découverte des aliments » de Charreau, Etienne et Ingagriola, Educagri, 2006. Articles in « le Bien Public » and « Papilles ».
Birth Date: August 27, 1947 Marital Status: Married
Nationality: American and French
french-cooking-culture.blogspot.com
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