jeudi 31 mai 2007

Restaurant Review

Restaurant Review
Côté Terrasse
Dijon, May 24, 2007
By Alex Miles
Just three weeks ago this stylish restaurant opened its doors to customers hungry for something new. The first impression I had was that the clients thirst for novelty in food and décor would be quenched. This is the latest addition to the modernizing trend on the restaurant scene in Dijon….You say, “Restaurant scene…in Dijon?” You bet. This new arrival confirms the fact that a trend is truly under way.
You immediately feel like you’re in a new place. The entrance is spacious with an active bar serving customers waiting for their dining companions to arrive. The color tones are beige and deep chestnut brown with vertical reproductions of waves which left their imprint on a sandy beach.
We were shown to our table, a high table with high chairs, (almost all of the other tables were of normal height), just next to the sliding glass doors which opened out onto the terrace…the “Côté Terrasse”! Though I understand that these high chairs are somewhat in vogue I felt as if I had regressed back to childhood and that the waitress would put a bib around my neck and pinch my cheek if behaved well.
We had hoped for a place on the terrace but I found out that one has to specify when making the reservation. However, I did notice two tables on the terrace which remained unoccupied throughout our meal…could it have been that we were not sufficiently in with the “In Crowd” to have been placed on the much prized and sunny terrace? I hope not.
The waitresses were scurrying about in their tight fitting, dark brown t-shirts. They were well adapted to the clientele; young and pretty. We eagerly watched the ballade of square and rectangular plates pass by, all decorated with brush strokes of color and food displayed in vertical volume structured with herbs. The atmosphere was resolutely relaxed and the food was fresh, good and at very reasonable prices.
My companion and I both ordered the luncheon menu at 10.90 Euros which included the main dish and dessert. I ordered the special of the day; lamb brochette in a creamy chive and thyme sauce which was leaning on a mound of perfectly cooked quinoa which had plump raisins and delicate spices. My companion had a skirt steak with fries…the steak and crisp fries were just fine though it would have been nice to have freshly made fries rather than the frozen variety. The steak was served with a choice of gorgonzola or a 5 pepper sauce. Both sauces were ordered and both were delicious.
We both had the dessert of the day which was a freshly made apricot tart. The “sablée” crust was excellent and the firm apricots could only have come from Morocco. Though canned, these apricots are of top quality and hand packed in light syrup…nothing like the mushy variety you get at the supermarket. Dabs of raspberry coulis decorated the plate. This dessert was definitely homemade and not an afterthought as in many moderately priced establishments. The coffee which came in ergonomically designed cups with a twisted handle was a little too light for my taste.
The bathrooms were impeccable, decorated like the restaurant in large, square, dark brown, mat tiles. The lights went on automatically when entering and the stainless steel water fixtures resembled the rest of the sleek décor.
Côté Terrasse presents itself as a restaurant, wine bar and wine cellar. We didn’t drink at lunch so I can’t say anything about their wine list…maybe on the next visit for dinner. I look forward to ordering off the à la carte menu and try some of the chef’s specialties.
This is one of the rare Dijon restaurants open 7 days a week which is another welcome treat to the growing number of fine restaurants in town. Côté Terrasse is at 10 place de la République with service till midnight on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Service after 10 PM is also a novelty and much in demand by the people of Dijon on the lookout for a place to go after the theater or the cinema!

samedi 26 mai 2007

COOKING CLASSES IN FRANCE IN ENGLISH

FRENCH COOKING IN ENGLISH IN FRANCE
BY CHEF ALEX MILES
alexmiles47@gmail.com
cell phone: (33) (0)6 33 69 62 99
The only American giving cooking classes in the heart of Burgundy!
I have lived in France for 25 years and enjoy sharing my culinary & cultural experiences with you. I worked with the world famous caterer and pâtissier, “Lenôtre,” on three continents and had 5 French pastry shops of my own in Manhattan and the New York area. I am a chef, pastry chef and also lecture on food, identity and culture at universities throughout France as well as consulting for the food industry. I work for the European Commission on “Animal Welfare” and am a member of several committees on health and food in public schools for the city of Dijon and the Burgundy region.
French Family Food
I have taught cooking and pastry making for many years and am now sharing these skills with American and English speaking tourists in several Burgundy Bed & Breakfast places; “La Terre d’Or” in Beaune, http://www.laterredor.com/, “Les Roches” in Mont St. Jean, http://www.lesroches-burgundy.com/ , “Clos du Colombier” in Pommard, mc.pothier@wanadoo.fr . The day begins when we meet at your Bed & Breakfast place and discuss the plans for the day over coffee. Then we go to the local French market where I know many of the vendors. We make the menu and choose the foods while at the market. I will explain what the different foods are, where they come from and what pleasure they give to the French in their daily lives. (Check out http://www.gonomad.com/ under the heading Dijon and/or Burgundy.)
The French Family Food experience shows you what people really cook at home. These are classic dishes easy to make without the fuss of having to be a chemist or physicist. These are understandable recipes explained in a clear and concise way which will help you please your friends and family when you get back home. The things you will learn are not the new “molecular gastronomy” but simple identifiable foods you can sink your teeth into! I will also talk about current trends in French cooking and where the culinary arts are going.
You will enjoy a day in comfortable surroundings, learn some little known aspects of French culture and pick up a few culinary tricks and recipes that you will be able to put to use in your kitchen at home. The idea is to have a good time while doing something you wouldn’t get the chance to do anywhere else. Most tourists feel quite free to ask me questions about the French they wouldn’t dare ask a Frenchman…the idea is to feel relaxed and enjoy!
My book, “Ces hommes qui cuisine,” (“Men in the Kitchen”), shows portraits of men throughout France who cook at home for their pleasure while at the same time sharing the household tasks with their wives. The book is beautifully photographed by Marielys Lorthios, http://www.marielys-lorthios.com/ and all the recipes are clearly explained and written. I am working on a new book with the well known Burgundy photographer, Michel Joly, http://micheljoly.photo.free.fr/ which will appear in the Fall of 2008.
I have a radio show where I interview chefs and writers on their books about food and appear on French television programs dealing with food and culture
I acquired French nationality in 2004, (of course I still keep my American citizenship), and live happily with my French wife in Dijon.

vendredi 25 mai 2007

Restaurant review

Le Relais Bernard Loiseau
Restaurant Review
By Alex Miles
May 20, 2007

Saulieu is smack dab in the geographical heart of Burgundy. What better place to test and taste the regions delights at one of the 3 star gastronomical shrines of France? Alexandre Dumaine held court at this spot for many years before the highway (A6) diverted travelers on their speedy way to destinations in Provence. Up until the late 70’s Saulieu was the perfect first stop on the trip south for Parisians who took the National 6 (N6), a much more picturesque road. People in search of a luxury layover found a hotel which catered to their needs and a restaurant with all the trimmings and finesse they desired…Today, Le Relais Bernard Loiseau carries on the tradition with unequaled refinement and creativity.

The section of the N6 which goes through the center of Saulieu has just been redone to give the approach to the Relais the dignified décor it deserves. As we entered the restaurant the welcome was courteous, discrete and comforting. Even though you may not be known by the staff, you’re greeted as a privileged guest in their home.

We were escorted through the airy hallway lined with large windows looking out on a cozy garden park nestled in the Relais’ center which is surrounded by the hotel and quaint balconies which adorn each room. We arrived at the top of a stairway which allowed a domineering view of the salon and its huge fireplace where we could have had a drink but decided to go directly to the dining room.

Our table, like all the others, looks out onto the lush garden. We imagined how nice it would be to wake up in such surroundings and have a fine breakfast in all this greenery. We shared a bottle of water en guise of an aperitif. I love good wine but don’t drink that much; especially at lunch, (it makes me sleepy). Remember to be careful when you get in your car after having several glasses of wine because the French police are on the prowl more than ever!

Even though we only had water as our “cocktail’ we were served some gougère au fromage. (When you don’t order a drink at the outset of your meal, oftentimes you don’t get those wonderful little nibbles you see the other tables enjoying and feel somewhat left out…not here!) The gougère, piped out on a thin layer of puff pastry, were crispy and creamy at the same time…a delightful reinvention of an otherwise common Burgundy classic.

What to choose, what to choose…My companion ordered the langoustine* royale and the veal chop and no dessert and I decided on the foie gras and the omble chevalier**. I asked the waiter to have the pastry chef to give me what he liked best and then got simple straightforward advice from the wine steward without the unnecessary and sometimes confusing though poetic spirited jargon.

As is the custom in fine restaurants, we received three “amuse bouche”, (literally means happy mouth), before the arrival of our order. We were instructed as to the order in which they were to be tasted and we did as we were advised. First there was a crayfish mousse on a veal jelly in a small clear glass…then a de-structured parsley ham in an Asian soup spoon and lastly a small, warm, green sphere which revealed hidden morsels of snails. We then were served another “happy mouth”, a small round of foie gras mousse with fried borage leaves. My companion was relieved to have decided to skip the dessert course.

The large langoustine, curled atop a ravioli on a tenderly cooked piece of fennel was bathed in clarified veal au jus with a hint of lemon and thyme. My companion was familiar with and enjoyed the langoustine but it was the broth which really sets this dish apart…like a fine wine, the flavors of the broth kept appearing and surprising her taste buds long after she finished her dish. My pan seared foie gras had white beans from Tarbes and a foam of Jurançon wine all cuddled in a tasty bouillon which did not overpower the delicacy of the foie gras or the refined texture of the beans.

My companion had chosen to have only one glass of wine throughout the meal and the steward chose a Givry 1ère Cru, François Lump, 2005, under the Loiseau label and I had a Monbazillac from Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure, Christian Roche, 2005.

The milk fed veal chop, perfectly cooked by the chef then sliced at the table by the waiter, was served with sage gnocchi and green asparagus. The quality of the veal was remarkable and the meat seemed to vanish in her mouth. She barely needed a knife. My fish had that dreamy texture and flavor that only an omble chevalier has. The tiny turnips which decorated my plate offered a pleasant crunch compared to the softness of the fish. I sipped a St. Aubin 1ère Cru, Bernard Morey, 2005, also under the Loiseau label.

We were served a pre-dessert which prepared our taste buds for the inevitable treats that accompany the real dessert: crisp almond tuiles, melt in your mouth basil macaroons and tiny tartelettes with jellied fruits. The pastry chef sent out a truly original creation. It was a bar of nut mousse made from locally grown hazelnuts, covered with cassis jelly, decorated with purple potato chips and a dollop of cassis sorbet all sitting on a long rectangle of an crisp cookie made with potato flour. The mingling textures were a treat and it was just sweet enough to qualify as a dessert.

It’s much easier to write a review when the food experience is unfortunate because that’s when I come up with all the caustic adjectives to bite back the inattentive restaurateur for having used all those good ingredients for naught. At Le Relais Bernard Loiseau we had happy mouths from beginning to end and everywhere in between. The service was attentive without being overbearing and the advice on wines by the glass precise, well balanced and affordable. To be honest, the surrounding décor was pleasant enough not be noticed which is a fine way to feel at home. The elegance with which we were treated allowed us to savor the luxury of a fine meal tasteful comfort.

Improvement can sometimes be the fruit of adversity. Bernard Loiseau died in January 2002. L’oiseau means “bird” in french. Bernard was a multi-colored bird who, like the phoenix, flew too close to the sun. His obsession and passion for perfection drove him to the height of his profession and took him at his apogee. Today his wife, Dominique Loiseau, has the great fortune to be seconded in the kitchen by Patrick Bertron. Mr. Bertron has succeeded in maintaining the 3 star standards set by Mr. Loiseau and has gone further in creating many new dishes which bring the dining experience far into the 21st century. He does this without the artifice of the latest trends in molecular gastronomy but with a solid understanding of place, preference and panache. His new signature dishes attest to his quest for excellence and this spirit is shared and encouraged by Mme. Loiseau.

Bernard Loiseau opened two restaurants in Paris in the late 1990’s, Tante Louise and Tante Marguerite. Dominique Loiseau has taken command of these restaurants and all the operations of the Groupe Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu and elsewhere with grace, finesse and business acumen heretofore unsuspected in this intelligent, elegant and strong woman. Today, Mme. Loiseau and her business are doing better than ever and a new luxury hotel and restaurant has just been added to their stellar activities; Le Cep, in Beaune. The renovation of Le Cep will be completed in August 2007.

Le Relais Bernard Loiseau is in the center of Saulieu on the national route 6. The prix fixe menus start at 120 euros and the à la carte menu ranges from 40 to 105 euros. For those who are looking for rare Burgundy wines they have one of the top cellars in France at their gourmet gift shop where you can purchase wines, regional favorites, books and other culinary trinkets which is just next to the restaurant.
www.bernardloiseau.com

*A langoustine tastes like something between a lobster and heaven.
**Omble chevalier, a fresh water fish, is to salmon what truffles are to mushrooms.

lundi 14 mai 2007

News

Today I was at a conference on Odors and Emotions a the CESG (Centre Européen des Siences de Goût) European Center for the Sciences of Taste in Dijon. One of my former students whom I helped on a project concerning sensorial perception in the US, France & Vietnam, Christam Chrea, made a great presentation. I met people from Nestlé from their Swiss headquarters. The sensorial world is fabulous, mysterious & full of surprises.
My role as a sociologist is to put the sensorial perceptions in context culturally. My role a a cook is to make things taste good to as many people as possible. My role as a blogger...well its still not clear to me but I guess I have to get into the discipline of doing something regularly every day...
A Bientôt,
Alex

vendredi 11 mai 2007

Newcommer to Blogland French Food & Culture

Hello Everybody!
I live in Dijon France with my wife and have been a chef de cuisine and pastry chef, work in the Sociology of Food and consult for the local governements and the food industry. I speak French fluently and will be pleased to reply in French. I am American and acquired French nationality nearly 3 years ago.
This is a first for me, bloging that is. I'm not sure what to say. I usually know who I'm talking to, I don't know you as yet, and then I know what to say.
I'm doing this because it seems to be a good way to communicate with people who are interested in the things I am...food, culture, France and America...and the rest of the world.
Once I figure out how to use this machine I will put up some fotos and much more information about myself.
I will write artiles about what I do, where I go, what I eat and what I cook. I will be alking about the cooking classes I will be giving and my involvment in life in Burgundy and France. I am completely open to ay subject and will share my bibliographies on the subjects I've read.
I hope to create some interest simply because we share the same feelings about life on the planet today which needs a strong injection of humanism and responsibility.
A Bientôt,
Alex Miles