French Cooking Culture

NEW SITE for Cooking Classes in English www.i-food-france.com

2011-09-06T02:41:00.000-07:00

I have a new site for all the information you may need about cooking classes in Burgundy in English: www.i-food-france.com
I give personalized cooking classes just for you. Contact me at alexmiles47@gmail.com for more information!!!

I'm happy at the Dijon Marché!!!!

2011-02-16T02:43:00.001-08:00

New Picture Veggies in Puff Pastry

2011-02-16T02:39:00.001-08:00

I have a new Apple computer…and I'm learning!

2011-02-16T02:37:00.000-08:00

Paul Bocuse Perd le Nord

2011-01-14T08:42:00.001-08:00

Bocuse Lyon
« A T-il Perdu le Nord »
Has He lost his sense of direction
Deception at le Nord !
By Alex Miles
22 November 2010
With all due respect to the iconic chef, I was terribly disappointed with my meal at Bocuse’s, “Le Nord”. The cardinal points of Lyon are occupied by four Brasserie/Bistro restaurants that don’t pretend to serve the fantastic classic fare served at his 3 star table by the Saône…but what we were served in this emblematic city known for its fine cuisine could barely be considered the French food I know and love. I’ve had better food in a US diner!
We started with a small bowl of salad which had non-descript leaves, uncomfortably large chunks of tomato, a mini half piece of a soft white tasteless goat cheese and a vinaigrette that was passable but certainly not memorable.
Our main dish was just food. The small roasted breast of chicken which lounged in its drippings sat on small unpeeled potato halves was surprising in its lack luster presentation and barely warm temperature.
Dessert was a frozen mass of something which pretended to be a soufflé glace but was so hard that when I tried to crack into this brick, the piece I finally chipped off nearly went flying across the table. Something red was carelessly dripped on the plate and a shortbread cookie covered the abominable creation.
None of the dishes which were brought to our table were described in any way by the busy, pressured waiters. I felt that no one in the kitchen or dining room cared about what they were making or serving.
Dear M. Paul, your name on the door is not enough to make the food in this restaurant taste good. It’s true that the prices at Le Nord are more affordable than the paragon of French gastronomy which bears your name. It’s clear that you and your staff have the talent and the means to do better. It’s not because the price is less at your restaurants at the four corners of Lyon that customers should feel cornered by inferior cuisine. Please tell your staff to make the effort and show the public that you care.

Restaurant review: Victor & Gustav, Dijon, France

2010-12-27T01:24:00.000-08:00

Victor & Gustav
Restaurant Review by Alex Miles
Vins des Rues, (« Street Wine »), has transformed itself. Formerly a fine wine bar with good food, it has become a fine wine bar with great food.
A metamorphose with new decorations, grey with splashes of red, and a long couch with cushions that stretches from the entrance all the way back to the kitchen entrance. Opposite this comfortable row of seats is the bar where you can enjoy a glass of your favorite breuvage on a stool or standing.
The waitress and the boss welcomed us aimiably with a warm smile. We drank a glass of local Chardonnay which set the ambiance for the rest.
We dispensed with the usual first dish and we all ordered the daily special; Jaret de veau, (veal shank). Our main dish came out quickly from the kitchen on an oblong white plate surrounded by a swirl of squash purée & a bit of fresh greenery on the side. The salad was seasoned perfectly with a light balsamic vinager and a hint of white truffle. We could tell right away that someone in the kitchen cared about what they were doing.
I tasted the squash swirl and delighted in its slight tartness which counter balanced the sweetness of the sauce that surrounded the chunk of veal. In order for a veal shank to be tender it has to cook for a long while or else it’ll be tough and stringy. This voluptuous veal just melted in my mouth. It was clear that it was slow cooked at a low temperature. The veal I enjoyed in Dijon was far better than meal I’d had in Paris at a 2 Star palace.
Though there may be no stars in the future for this Victor & Gustav because of it size and neighborhood allure, it doesn’t mean you can’t have a fine and friendly experience at one of Dijon’s newest eateries. But I will let you in on a secret…the new menu is signed and conceived by none other than our Michelin stared chefs of Prénois fame, Nicolas Isnard & Davis Le Comte, of l’Auberge de la Charme.
Nicolas & David have built up an excellent reputation for their restaurant which is just 10 minutes from Dijon. They are using their expertise to offer very good food at a price without pretense. The luncheon meal at V&G was only 12.90€ with desert….which I forgot to mention was a light and delicious blend of oranges in a barely sweet syrup.
When you’re in Dijon take a look at Victor & Gustav*, sit down and enjoy one of life’s little pleasures without putting a dent in your pocketbook. When you want to spend more time at your meal and sample some of the fineries of French cuisine, which is why you came to France in the first place, go L’Auberge de la Charme. Either way, the route to pleasure leads to Dijon.
*Victor Baltard and Gustav Eiffel were great engineers who made their architectural mark in 19th century France by building new, never seen before steel structures, one of which houses the marché of Dijon. Gustav is a native son of this capital of the Dukes of Burgundy.

Restaurant Review: Apicius, in Paris France

2010-11-17T13:12:00.000-08:00

APICIUS
Review by Alex Miles
Magical is the first word that comes to mind. How could I say otherwise? Just walking on to the grounds of this formidable Château smack dab in the center of Paris is an unforgettable experience in itself. With a long driveway, a “voiturier”, and an entrance that takes me back to times gone by. Times gone by that I’d never seen but this décor opens up the gates to my imagined memory.
There were several men at the door to warmly greet us. The only feminine presence was the person who took our coats. Though these men were quite courteous there seemed to be lacking a bit of warmth that some women transmit with graciousness.
The interior décor was grand; grey/beige walls with large paintings and works of art hung on walls that climbed to a height of more than 12 feet. In spite of the fine wines we drank (a 2001Guigal Hermitage and a Banyuls 2007) the ambiance was sober, dignified and comfortable.
Our initial glass of Laurent Perrier went down easily with the nibbles of mushroom gougère, marinated tuna in a twisted porcelain spoon and a mini oyster with shallot vinaigrette. My companion ordered the langoustine combo; tempura, tartar and roasted while I had the seasonal vegetable plate. Though the veggies were mostly cooked to perfection I had trouble identifying their seasonality. Instead of getting the Fall/Winter roots like rutabaga, parsnips, roasted beets and Jerusalem artichoke, I was served green beans, spinach, small carrots, tiny turnips, sugar peas, cherry tomatoes, leeks and a lonely artichoke half. The thinly disguised liquid which served as a sauce did not make me say Wow. It was simply poured there like a nondescript pond with nowhere to go.
A surprise gift came from the kitchen. A porcini cream with a white truffle sabayon was presented in a small elegant porcelain bowl with a few nearly transparent slices of the fragrant Italian fungus. We inhaled this perfumed treat delightfully.
The breast of Mallard duck with foie gras was a highlight. Perfectly tender, warm and cooked to a rosy pink this seasonal game allowed us the privilege of enjoying the best Autumn has to offer in the finest French restaurants. The accompanying mashed potatoes were laced with a hint of black truffle juice.
The chocolate and pistachio soufflés were light and airy as soufflés often are. But that’s all I can say, light and airy. They seemed to lack some of the substance that outstanding soufflés are made of.
All in all the experience at this palace of fine dining, or should I say Château, was something to remember. I would be most pleased to return at other times and taste their seasonal adaptability.
Prices range from about 75€ per person to 150€ and better. Unfortunately there is no menu for those who are looking a prix fixe at more affordable rates.
Apicius , 20 rue d’Artois 75008 Paris www.restaurant-apicius.com

Food Camp Dijon

2010-11-07T18:05:00.000-08:00

I had the unique pleasure to participate in something new, a Food Camp.
What is a Food Camp? Well, it's a bunch of people who get together who are interested in food...on different levels. Yes, there were people who made food while others ate, people who spoke about their food blogs, private people, public people, business people and a lot of kids who had a great time playing with food. That part was a bit campy...and colorful and fun with multi-colored cupcakes.
Something happens when people who are interested in food get together. Yes, they talk about food but the the subject of food, is in fact, the subject of life and relationships. Food and its context is a thriving and exciting phenomenon which has the whole world chatting, cooking and sharing. It's the sharing and exchanging by curious people that makes all this possible.
Food is not just what you eat, its molecules, nutrients and all those tiny things you cant' pick up with a fork which are of course important but that's not the whole story. It's not just what you eat that counts but how, when and with whom you share the food.
People have always shared their food. It's a only recently that people eat alone or on the run. There's always been a pecking order of who eats what first which in many places around the planet is still the rule. Nomad eating is a new phenomenon which reflects our fast food culture...and in some sense, the way I'm writing these rambling notes.
It's two in the morning and I am rambling but that's ok. This is my frist attempt in a long while to put something on this site in a long while. I hope to keep it up so that you'll be interested to read what I have to say and the things I'l have to show you. It's the unknown and barely perceptible you with whom I want to commmunicate. All this new fangled, ever changing technological world baffles and intrigues me. If I can figure out how this all works, I will do this regularly and perhaps the amorphous you will take shape and want to share with me your thoughts, queries and comments.
It's now 3 AM and the best thing forme to do is go back to bed...and perhaps tomorrow I may something else to say!
Alex

Private Cooking Classes in France

2010-10-29T08:52:00.000-07:00

Alex Miles is the only chef who offers PRIVATE COOKING CLASSES in Burgundy tailored to your desires and needs, in English and French. Based in Dijon, the historic capital of Burgundy, Alex has lived in France for 30 years and has an intimate knowledge of French Culture and Cuisine.

The day begins at the Market, (le marché), where you get a cooks tour of all the fine fresh products on display. At le marché you will be able to choose your menu, with the help of Alex, from all the ingredients available. Then you go to the kitchen to cook, talk and enjoy. The day begins at 8:30 AM and finishes up at around 4:00 PM.

FRENCH FAMILY FOOD

The cooking course is called “French Family Food”. People love this class because it shows what French people really eat at home. Alex worked with the world famous chef, Gaston Lenôtre, where he did the finest in cooking, catering and baking. He now prefers the more rustic, people friendly approach to making food and will explain clearly in a relaxed atmosphere what French home cooking is all about. The idea is to share with you his experiences in France as well the knowledge he’s attained through working with the top restaurant chefs as well as his own bakeries in New York. Because he has interviewed many of the 3 star chefs in France for his radio show about books and food, he can also recommend the best places to enjoy a fine meal for dinner or lunch.

Alex has become something of a local celebrity on TV, radio, magazines and newspapers, being the only American who is a pastry chef, chef de cuisine and has been a professor and lecturer in the area of the Sociology of Food at various schools and institutions throughout France. So you get not only a cooking lesson but a wide ranging cultural approach to France, the French and their food habits.

CULINARY TOURISM

This is Culinary Tourism at its best where you get the recipes you’ve always wanted and the cultural introduction to the French life style. Alex will answer all your questions about the French and their food without inhibition, frankly and clearly and with bit good humor thrown in for good luck.

Whether your voyage to France is for business or pleasure, or both, you and your travel companion could take the time to learn some cooking techniques and recipes you can bring home with you. You can take a full day seasonal cooking class which includes a starter, main dish and dessert or you can do a full day of pastries which can include doughs, tarts, savory items and even chocolate desserts.

Look at Alex’s résumé* and you will get a glimpse of the man you will cook with. Contact him by e-mail so he can give you all the details of his cooking and baking classes for your French vacation.

CONTACT ALEX: alexmiles47@gmail.com

** Noted in Fodor’s Guide to Travel Experiences in Burgundy

Also see > Teacher, Lecturer, Consultant

Teacher, Lecturer, Consultant

2010-10-29T08:46:00.000-07:00

Business, Gastronomy, Sociology, Special Events Management

Domains of Expertise

Teacher Trainer

Definition and elaboration of pedagogical programs
Create training videos
Evaluation and follow up of personnel
Lecturer, jury member for diploma
Classes in Gastronomy and Identity, Sociology and History of Food, Food Safety and Consumer Behavior, Restaurant Business, European Union and International Culture

Manager

Experience in management and human resources
Managed production, sales and distribution personnel
Development and follow through of new ventures
Communication and public relations
Wrote commercial sales manual
Liaison between the American Embassy and the company

Sales

Development of wholesale service
Opened stores in New York City
Managed chain stores and franchises
Collaboration with architects on concept and image
Realized marketing and packaging projects

Pastry Chef

Creation of French bakeries in New York
International desserts at the United Nations
Produced a line of “Light” frozen desserts
Consultant for: Cointreau America, Lenôtre Paris, Chocolat Valrhona, Disneyland Paris, SEB, Cassis Boudier, Danone, Lacanche, Tupperware.

Initiator/Organizer of Special Events

Thanksgiving Dinners for 250 people as a Benefit in several cities in France.
Conference on French and American Culinary Historical Relations at the American Ambassador’s Residence in Paris with food and wine tastings.
4-14 Festival: Celebration of the Music and Food of France and America. World famous musicians and starred chefs from both countries shared their talents with an enthusiastic public in Dijon. www.4-14-festival.org
Public & press relations, raise funds from the public and private sector.

PROFESSIONAL CAREER: 1978 – 2009

Organizer of the 4-14 Festival 2009 in Dijon www.4-14festival.org
Professor and Lecturer: Burgundy School of Business, Dijon; Université de Bourgogne, ENSBANA; ISIPCA; ENSIA; ISAB; EHESS; Sciences Po Paris; Université de Toulouse, CETIA, ERIT; New York University; and the American Embassy in Paris.
Member of Pilot Committees, “Dijon Ville Santé”, for Dijon and “Bien dans Mon Assiette” for the Burgundy region
Culinary instructor in classic French and international cuisines
Researcher for the European Commission on “Animal Welfare”
Research Associate, Sociologie: Université de Toulouse, Mirail
Writer : « Arts & Gastronomie Magazine »
Radio Show Host: interview authors of books about food on RCF Parabole

Sales Trainer: Ecomarketing, Chenôve
Regional Director: Société Cjys, Gevrey-Chambertin
Owner Operator: La Bonne Pâtisserie, New York City
Pastry Chef: United Nations Hotel, New York City
Commercial Administrator: Lenôtre Paris, Plaisir
Sous-Chef & Pastry Chef: Domain Chandon, Yountville, California

EDUCATION:

1983 Certificates in Human Resources Management and Management Communications – ESSEC, France (IMHI, Cornell University)

1982 Certificat D’Aptitude Professionnelle, French Government Certificate in Pastry Arts

Certificat Escoffier- Ecole Hôteliére Jean Drouant, Paris

Certificates in Pastry, Cooking, Catering, etc. Ecole Lenôtre

Bachelor of Arts in Sociology and Education, City University of New York

Publications : « Ces hommes qui cuisinent », éditions Agnès Viénot, 2005, « On Baking », Labensky, (contributor), éditions Pearson, 2005.

Préface « A La Découverte des aliments » de Charreau, Etienne et Ingagriola, Educagri, 2006. « Scènes Gourmandes », J-J Boutaud, (contributor), J-P Rocher, 2006. Articles in « le Bien Public » and « Papilles ».

Birth Date: August 27, 1947 Marital Status: Married

Nationality: American and French

Meryl Streep at the US Ambassador's residence in Paris

2009-09-08T09:44:00.000-07:00

I had the great honor to go to a private screening of the new film "Julie & Julia" with the new American Ambassador to France, Charlie Rivkin, and a host of dignitaries who had all been at the conference I organized in November 2008 on Gastronomy in France and America.
The woman next to Meryl Streep is the niece of Simone Beck with whom Julia Child wrote her famous book," Mastering the Art of French Cooking"...now in its 46th printing.
It was a great evening catered by the Cordon Bleu Cooking School of Paris. The film was a great success.
At the next 4-14 Festival we will be showing films among which "Julie & Julia" will certainly be included.
I've restarted this blog...maybe someday someone will notice...perhaps just like Julie!
Love to All,
Alex Miles
www.4-14-festival.org

Food & Music in Dijon at the first 4-14 Festival

2009-09-06T12:34:00.000-07:00

America’s Independence Day, July 4, and France’s Bastille Day, July 14, were jointly and joyously celebrated in Dijon, capital of Burgundy, this year – the first annual “4-14” Festival of the city, showcasing the music and cuisines of both great countries.
And not only food and music brought these two cultures together, but a real desire on on both sides of the Atlantic to share and discover at first hand who are the French and who are the Americans, and what they have to offer each other.
Why music and food you may ask? Because Americans don’t realize that the French can play music! And the French don’t know that Americans can cook!
The great steel and glass central market, built by Gustav Eiffel, Dijon’s native son, in 1870, housed 60 stands with regional products, and 20 stands where top chefs from France and America offered exquisite tastings for only 3 Euros each. The organizers had hoped for 5,000 visitors but were overwhelmed when 15,000 happy people eager to discover new tastes and sounds thronged the events.
All the three star chefs from Burgundy were present, Lameloise, Lorain and Bertron,as well as other starred chefs from Dijon and the region. The State of Vermont was this year’s American partner, with Amy Chamberlain and Michael Gunyan showcasing their fine farm foods from home. The festival welcomed the renowned Chicagoan chef, Martial Noguier, from the Sofitel Water Tower. He was joined by Chicago native, Daniel Rose, chef/owner of Restaurant Spring in Paris. Daniel came to France 10 years ago, transforming himself from an art history and philosophy major into a fine cook, whose restaurant waiting list is the longest in all Paris. And from Washington, DC, Bill Yosses, pastry chef of the White House, graced the festival with his prized desserts.
The music was a real triumph of Franco-American entente. Americans Kirk Lightsey, one time pianist with Chet Baker, and Sarah Morrow, former trombonist with Ray Charles, enchanted the large audience and finished the soirée with jam sessions accompanied by their newfound French friends on stage, Eric Prost and Daniel Fernandez.
Alex Miles, the American initiator of The 4-14 Festival, resident of Dijon and French citizen since 2004, developed the concept with a small team of enthusiastic folks from Dijon and the States. The 4-14 instantly became the biggest event of the summer in the Burgundian capital. Many companies with international interests happily sponsored the festival which was also supported by the U.S. Embassy in Paris, the Burgundy Region, and the City of Dijon. Check out their site www.4-14-festival.org
The organizers are setting their sights on the City of Chicago for their next American partner for the 2010 edition. They plan to meld The 4-14 Festival with The Taste of Chicago and attract even more curious music and food lovers next year.

2007-10-16T23:48:00.001-07:00

Restaurant Review: Lameloise

2007-08-09T13:04:00.000-07:00

Restaurant Review of Lameloise
Chagny, July 26, 2007
By Alex Miles

Dinning in Burgundy is improving all the time. Lameloise, in Chagny, lost his third star two years ago. In astronomy, a shooting star never rises again but in gastronomy, Jacques Lameloise proved the nay Sayers wrong. In 2007 he got back his third and well deserved star much to the delight of his staff and the whole town of Chagny which depends so much on the reputation of this grand restaurant.
The meal we had was a sensorial passage from one taste to another keeping in mind local ingredients and the current culinary evolution in textures, temperatures and colors. The service was respectful and relaxed and the wait staff was attentive without being omnipresent. The décor was intimate, spacious and comfortable. The muted rust red leather chairs, the smooth white walls with stone jutting out here and there, the ample lighting and the large old beams which spanned the ceiling made the atmosphere welcoming as well as distinguished. After all, this is a three star establishment where you wouldn’t expect less.
Jacques Lameloise came out to greet every customer at least once during the dinner. He has a warm smile, an inviting handshake and speaks simply and in a straightforward, jovial manner about his food, his restaurant and his life in Burgundy. He is not the kind of chef who throws temper tantrums and must have his way. He regained his star rating by listening to his staff, making recommendations and encouraging what everyone had been doing right. A third star happens after hard conscientious work, depending on others talents and most of all being passionate about the job at hand.
Our tasting menu allowed us to sample the breadth of Lameloise’s great kitchen acumen. Foie gras came on mango toast with a frothy potato which disappeared as soon as it entered our mouths. Then there was a brochette of snails sitting on a thin slice of daikon radish accompanied by a fresh herb and garlic cream. A slow cooked filet of wild sea bass appeared with a sabayon of wild mushrooms and lightly sautéed chanterelles. The langoustine with risotto and Burgundy truffles was more than a surprise, it was an artistic event. One of the langoustines was sitting on a round toast which was on top of a circle of squid ink. I had great fun swishing the toast around the ink attempting to imitate the fine French artist Soulage. This was all whetted down with a Rully 1ere Cru, 2005, Les Pucelles of Jacques Son.
The meaty part of the meal was a rosy pigeon with large slabs of porcini, (cep) mushrooms, a tomato confit with fried basil and stuffed cabbage. We changed to a red wine at this point, a Santenay, 2004, from René Clair.
Our dessert was a variation on a Victoria pineapple: roasted, sorbet, and chopped with lemon with a fine sablé. An elegant variety of petit fours and chocolates made the coffee service a nibblers’ delight.
The restaurant Lameloise is worth more than a detour; it merits an extended stay to ponder the treasures of this great chef who, with dedication, passion and the love of sharing, has maintained excellence in an arena where few can maintain their status for as long as Jacques Lameloise has.
The lunch menu starts at 95 Euros. The dinner menu begins at 120 Euros. One can order à la carte. One can stay at this fine hotel where rooms start at 150€.
Chagny is just south of Beaune and north of Chalon sur Soâne at the southern end of Burgundy.

Summer in Burgundy

2007-08-05T08:02:00.000-07:00

Well, here I am in Burgundy, Dijon to be exact, on a beautiful warm sunny day. We have nothing to be envious of the South of France, because the South is comming to us...with Global Warming Dijon will have weather like Nice in the next 50 years...who knows!
But all politics and kddin aside it's great to be here and finally write a not on this blog of mine. As I said from the outset I wasn't sure what I was going to talk about...and I still haven't figured that out yet but I've been to a few restaurants in Burgundy and I will post mty reviews of them soon. Some good, some very good and some not worth the money or the trip.
I will write up a brief note about three restaurants tonight and you tell me what you think.
A Bientôt,
Alex

Jill

2007-06-06T00:30:00.000-07:00

Thanx Jill for your kind words!
Alex

My Résumé My CV

2007-06-02T08:59:00.000-07:00

Alex Miles

3 rue de Monastir tel: (33) (0)3 80 74 03 63
21000 Dijon tel: (33) (0)6 33 69 62 99
France e-mail: alexmiles47@gmail.com

Also see > Teacher, Lecturer, Consultant

TEACHER, LECTURER, CONSULTANT, COOKING INSTRUCTOR
Business, Gastronomy, Sociology
Domains of Expertise
Teacher Trainer

Definition and elaboration of pedagogical programs
Create training videos
Evaluation and follow up of personnel
Lecturer, jury member for diploma
Classes in Gastronomy and Identity, Sociology and History of Food, Food Safety and Consumer Behavior, Restaurant Business, European Union and International Culture

Manager

Experience in management and human resources
Managed production, sales and distribution personnel
Development and follow through of new ventures
Communication and public relations
Wrote commercial sales manual
Liaison between the American Embassy and the company

Sales

Development of wholesale service
Opened stores in New York City
Managed chain stores and franchises
Collaboration with architects on concept and image
Realized marketing and packaging projects

Pastry Chef

Creation of French bakeries in New York
International desserts at the United Nations
Produced a line of “Light” frozen desserts
Consultant for: Cointreau America, Lenôtre Paris, Chocolat Valrhona, Disneyland Paris, SEB, Cassis Boudier, Danone, Lacanche, Tupperware.

PROFESSIONAL CAREER: 1978 – 2007

Professor and Lecturer: Burgundy School of Business, Dijon; Université de Bourgogne, ENSBANA; ISIPCA; ENSIA; ISAB; EHESS; Sciences Po Paris; Université de Toulouse, CETIA, ERIT; New York University; and the American Embassy in Paris.
Member of Pilot Committees, “Dijon Ville Santé”, for Dijon and “Bien dans Mon Assiette” for the Burgundy region
Culinary instructor in classic French and international cuisines
Researcher for the European Commission on “Animal Welfare”
Research Associate, Sociologie: Université de Toulouse, Mirail
Radio Show Host: interview authors of books about food on RCF Parabole
Sales Trainer: Ecomarketing, Chenôve
Regional Director: Société Cjys, Gevrey-Chambertin
Owner Operator: La Bonne Pâtisserie, New York City
Pastry Chef: United Nations Hotel, New York City
Commercial Administrator: Lenôtre Paris, Plaisir
Sous-Chef & Pastry Chef: Domain Chandon, Yountville, California

EDUCATION:

1983 Certificates in Human Resources Management and Management Communications – ESSEC, France (IMHI, Cornell University)
1982 Certificat D’Aptitude Professionnelle, French Government Certificate in Pastry Arts
1982 Certificat Escoffier- Ecole Hôteliére Jean Drouant, Paris
1980 Certificates in Pastry, Cooking, Catering, etc. Ecole Lenôtre
1970 Bachelor of Arts in Sociology and Education, City University of New York

Publications : « Ces hommes qui cuisinent », éditions Agnès Viénot, 2005, « On Baking », Labensky, (contributor), éditions Pearson, 2005.
Préface « A La Découverte des aliments » de Charreau, Etienne et Ingagriola, Educagri, 2006. Articles in « le Bien Public » and « Papilles ».

Birth Date: August 27, 1947 Marital Status: Married
Nationality: American and French

french-cooking-culture.blogspot.com

Restaurant Review

2007-05-31T23:01:00.000-07:00

Restaurant Review
Côté Terrasse
Dijon, May 24, 2007
By Alex Miles
Just three weeks ago this stylish restaurant opened its doors to customers hungry for something new. The first impression I had was that the clients thirst for novelty in food and décor would be quenched. This is the latest addition to the modernizing trend on the restaurant scene in Dijon….You say, “Restaurant scene…in Dijon?” You bet. This new arrival confirms the fact that a trend is truly under way.
You immediately feel like you’re in a new place. The entrance is spacious with an active bar serving customers waiting for their dining companions to arrive. The color tones are beige and deep chestnut brown with vertical reproductions of waves which left their imprint on a sandy beach.
We were shown to our table, a high table with high chairs, (almost all of the other tables were of normal height), just next to the sliding glass doors which opened out onto the terrace…the “Côté Terrasse”! Though I understand that these high chairs are somewhat in vogue I felt as if I had regressed back to childhood and that the waitress would put a bib around my neck and pinch my cheek if behaved well.
We had hoped for a place on the terrace but I found out that one has to specify when making the reservation. However, I did notice two tables on the terrace which remained unoccupied throughout our meal…could it have been that we were not sufficiently in with the “In Crowd” to have been placed on the much prized and sunny terrace? I hope not.
The waitresses were scurrying about in their tight fitting, dark brown t-shirts. They were well adapted to the clientele; young and pretty. We eagerly watched the ballade of square and rectangular plates pass by, all decorated with brush strokes of color and food displayed in vertical volume structured with herbs. The atmosphere was resolutely relaxed and the food was fresh, good and at very reasonable prices.
My companion and I both ordered the luncheon menu at 10.90 Euros which included the main dish and dessert. I ordered the special of the day; lamb brochette in a creamy chive and thyme sauce which was leaning on a mound of perfectly cooked quinoa which had plump raisins and delicate spices. My companion had a skirt steak with fries…the steak and crisp fries were just fine though it would have been nice to have freshly made fries rather than the frozen variety. The steak was served with a choice of gorgonzola or a 5 pepper sauce. Both sauces were ordered and both were delicious.
We both had the dessert of the day which was a freshly made apricot tart. The “sablée” crust was excellent and the firm apricots could only have come from Morocco. Though canned, these apricots are of top quality and hand packed in light syrup…nothing like the mushy variety you get at the supermarket. Dabs of raspberry coulis decorated the plate. This dessert was definitely homemade and not an afterthought as in many moderately priced establishments. The coffee which came in ergonomically designed cups with a twisted handle was a little too light for my taste.
The bathrooms were impeccable, decorated like the restaurant in large, square, dark brown, mat tiles. The lights went on automatically when entering and the stainless steel water fixtures resembled the rest of the sleek décor.
Côté Terrasse presents itself as a restaurant, wine bar and wine cellar. We didn’t drink at lunch so I can’t say anything about their wine list…maybe on the next visit for dinner. I look forward to ordering off the à la carte menu and try some of the chef’s specialties.
This is one of the rare Dijon restaurants open 7 days a week which is another welcome treat to the growing number of fine restaurants in town. Côté Terrasse is at 10 place de la République with service till midnight on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Service after 10 PM is also a novelty and much in demand by the people of Dijon on the lookout for a place to go after the theater or the cinema!

COOKING CLASSES IN FRANCE IN ENGLISH

2007-05-26T20:04:00.000-07:00

FRENCH COOKING IN ENGLISH IN FRANCE
BY CHEF ALEX MILES
alexmiles47@gmail.com
cell phone: (33) (0)6 33 69 62 99
The only American giving cooking classes in the heart of Burgundy!
I have lived in France for 25 years and enjoy sharing my culinary & cultural experiences with you. I worked with the world famous caterer and pâtissier, “Lenôtre,” on three continents and had 5 French pastry shops of my own in Manhattan and the New York area. I am a chef, pastry chef and also lecture on food, identity and culture at universities throughout France as well as consulting for the food industry. I work for the European Commission on “Animal Welfare” and am a member of several committees on health and food in public schools for the city of Dijon and the Burgundy region.
French Family Food
I have taught cooking and pastry making for many years and am now sharing these skills with American and English speaking tourists in several Burgundy Bed & Breakfast places; “La Terre d’Or” in Beaune, http://www.laterredor.com/, “Les Roches” in Mont St. Jean, http://www.lesroches-burgundy.com/ , “Clos du Colombier” in Pommard, mc.pothier@wanadoo.fr . The day begins when we meet at your Bed & Breakfast place and discuss the plans for the day over coffee. Then we go to the local French market where I know many of the vendors. We make the menu and choose the foods while at the market. I will explain what the different foods are, where they come from and what pleasure they give to the French in their daily lives. (Check out http://www.gonomad.com/ under the heading Dijon and/or Burgundy.)
The French Family Food experience shows you what people really cook at home. These are classic dishes easy to make without the fuss of having to be a chemist or physicist. These are understandable recipes explained in a clear and concise way which will help you please your friends and family when you get back home. The things you will learn are not the new “molecular gastronomy” but simple identifiable foods you can sink your teeth into! I will also talk about current trends in French cooking and where the culinary arts are going.
You will enjoy a day in comfortable surroundings, learn some little known aspects of French culture and pick up a few culinary tricks and recipes that you will be able to put to use in your kitchen at home. The idea is to have a good time while doing something you wouldn’t get the chance to do anywhere else. Most tourists feel quite free to ask me questions about the French they wouldn’t dare ask a Frenchman…the idea is to feel relaxed and enjoy!
My book, “Ces hommes qui cuisine,” (“Men in the Kitchen”), shows portraits of men throughout France who cook at home for their pleasure while at the same time sharing the household tasks with their wives. The book is beautifully photographed by Marielys Lorthios, http://www.marielys-lorthios.com/ and all the recipes are clearly explained and written. I am working on a new book with the well known Burgundy photographer, Michel Joly, http://micheljoly.photo.free.fr/ which will appear in the Fall of 2008.
I have a radio show where I interview chefs and writers on their books about food and appear on French television programs dealing with food and culture
I acquired French nationality in 2004, (of course I still keep my American citizenship), and live happily with my French wife in Dijon.

Restaurant review

2007-05-25T08:23:00.000-07:00

Le Relais Bernard Loiseau
Restaurant Review
By Alex Miles
May 20, 2007

Saulieu is smack dab in the geographical heart of Burgundy. What better place to test and taste the regions delights at one of the 3 star gastronomical shrines of France? Alexandre Dumaine held court at this spot for many years before the highway (A6) diverted travelers on their speedy way to destinations in Provence. Up until the late 70’s Saulieu was the perfect first stop on the trip south for Parisians who took the National 6 (N6), a much more picturesque road. People in search of a luxury layover found a hotel which catered to their needs and a restaurant with all the trimmings and finesse they desired…Today, Le Relais Bernard Loiseau carries on the tradition with unequaled refinement and creativity.

The section of the N6 which goes through the center of Saulieu has just been redone to give the approach to the Relais the dignified décor it deserves. As we entered the restaurant the welcome was courteous, discrete and comforting. Even though you may not be known by the staff, you’re greeted as a privileged guest in their home.

We were escorted through the airy hallway lined with large windows looking out on a cozy garden park nestled in the Relais’ center which is surrounded by the hotel and quaint balconies which adorn each room. We arrived at the top of a stairway which allowed a domineering view of the salon and its huge fireplace where we could have had a drink but decided to go directly to the dining room.

Our table, like all the others, looks out onto the lush garden. We imagined how nice it would be to wake up in such surroundings and have a fine breakfast in all this greenery. We shared a bottle of water en guise of an aperitif. I love good wine but don’t drink that much; especially at lunch, (it makes me sleepy). Remember to be careful when you get in your car after having several glasses of wine because the French police are on the prowl more than ever!

Even though we only had water as our “cocktail’ we were served some gougère au fromage. (When you don’t order a drink at the outset of your meal, oftentimes you don’t get those wonderful little nibbles you see the other tables enjoying and feel somewhat left out…not here!) The gougère, piped out on a thin layer of puff pastry, were crispy and creamy at the same time…a delightful reinvention of an otherwise common Burgundy classic.

What to choose, what to choose…My companion ordered the langoustine* royale and the veal chop and no dessert and I decided on the foie gras and the omble chevalier**. I asked the waiter to have the pastry chef to give me what he liked best and then got simple straightforward advice from the wine steward without the unnecessary and sometimes confusing though poetic spirited jargon.

As is the custom in fine restaurants, we received three “amuse bouche”, (literally means happy mouth), before the arrival of our order. We were instructed as to the order in which they were to be tasted and we did as we were advised. First there was a crayfish mousse on a veal jelly in a small clear glass…then a de-structured parsley ham in an Asian soup spoon and lastly a small, warm, green sphere which revealed hidden morsels of snails. We then were served another “happy mouth”, a small round of foie gras mousse with fried borage leaves. My companion was relieved to have decided to skip the dessert course.

The large langoustine, curled atop a ravioli on a tenderly cooked piece of fennel was bathed in clarified veal au jus with a hint of lemon and thyme. My companion was familiar with and enjoyed the langoustine but it was the broth which really sets this dish apart…like a fine wine, the flavors of the broth kept appearing and surprising her taste buds long after she finished her dish. My pan seared foie gras had white beans from Tarbes and a foam of Jurançon wine all cuddled in a tasty bouillon which did not overpower the delicacy of the foie gras or the refined texture of the beans.

My companion had chosen to have only one glass of wine throughout the meal and the steward chose a Givry 1ère Cru, François Lump, 2005, under the Loiseau label and I had a Monbazillac from Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure, Christian Roche, 2005.

The milk fed veal chop, perfectly cooked by the chef then sliced at the table by the waiter, was served with sage gnocchi and green asparagus. The quality of the veal was remarkable and the meat seemed to vanish in her mouth. She barely needed a knife. My fish had that dreamy texture and flavor that only an omble chevalier has. The tiny turnips which decorated my plate offered a pleasant crunch compared to the softness of the fish. I sipped a St. Aubin 1ère Cru, Bernard Morey, 2005, also under the Loiseau label.

We were served a pre-dessert which prepared our taste buds for the inevitable treats that accompany the real dessert: crisp almond tuiles, melt in your mouth basil macaroons and tiny tartelettes with jellied fruits. The pastry chef sent out a truly original creation. It was a bar of nut mousse made from locally grown hazelnuts, covered with cassis jelly, decorated with purple potato chips and a dollop of cassis sorbet all sitting on a long rectangle of an crisp cookie made with potato flour. The mingling textures were a treat and it was just sweet enough to qualify as a dessert.

It’s much easier to write a review when the food experience is unfortunate because that’s when I come up with all the caustic adjectives to bite back the inattentive restaurateur for having used all those good ingredients for naught. At Le Relais Bernard Loiseau we had happy mouths from beginning to end and everywhere in between. The service was attentive without being overbearing and the advice on wines by the glass precise, well balanced and affordable. To be honest, the surrounding décor was pleasant enough not be noticed which is a fine way to feel at home. The elegance with which we were treated allowed us to savor the luxury of a fine meal tasteful comfort.

Improvement can sometimes be the fruit of adversity. Bernard Loiseau died in January 2002. L’oiseau means “bird” in french. Bernard was a multi-colored bird who, like the phoenix, flew too close to the sun. His obsession and passion for perfection drove him to the height of his profession and took him at his apogee. Today his wife, Dominique Loiseau, has the great fortune to be seconded in the kitchen by Patrick Bertron. Mr. Bertron has succeeded in maintaining the 3 star standards set by Mr. Loiseau and has gone further in creating many new dishes which bring the dining experience far into the 21st century. He does this without the artifice of the latest trends in molecular gastronomy but with a solid understanding of place, preference and panache. His new signature dishes attest to his quest for excellence and this spirit is shared and encouraged by Mme. Loiseau.

Bernard Loiseau opened two restaurants in Paris in the late 1990’s, Tante Louise and Tante Marguerite. Dominique Loiseau has taken command of these restaurants and all the operations of the Groupe Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu and elsewhere with grace, finesse and business acumen heretofore unsuspected in this intelligent, elegant and strong woman. Today, Mme. Loiseau and her business are doing better than ever and a new luxury hotel and restaurant has just been added to their stellar activities; Le Cep, in Beaune. The renovation of Le Cep will be completed in August 2007.

Le Relais Bernard Loiseau is in the center of Saulieu on the national route 6. The prix fixe menus start at 120 euros and the à la carte menu ranges from 40 to 105 euros. For those who are looking for rare Burgundy wines they have one of the top cellars in France at their gourmet gift shop where you can purchase wines, regional favorites, books and other culinary trinkets which is just next to the restaurant.
www.bernardloiseau.com

*A langoustine tastes like something between a lobster and heaven.
**Omble chevalier, a fresh water fish, is to salmon what truffles are to mushrooms.

News

2007-05-14T10:39:00.000-07:00

Today I was at a conference on Odors and Emotions a the CESG (Centre Européen des Siences de Goût) European Center for the Sciences of Taste in Dijon. One of my former students whom I helped on a project concerning sensorial perception in the US, France & Vietnam, Christam Chrea, made a great presentation. I met people from Nestlé from their Swiss headquarters. The sensorial world is fabulous, mysterious & full of surprises.
My role as a sociologist is to put the sensorial perceptions in context culturally. My role a a cook is to make things taste good to as many people as possible. My role as a blogger...well its still not clear to me but I guess I have to get into the discipline of doing something regularly every day...
A Bientôt,
Alex

Newcommer to Blogland French Food & Culture

2007-05-11T09:30:00.000-07:00

Hello Everybody!
I live in Dijon France with my wife and have been a chef de cuisine and pastry chef, work in the Sociology of Food and consult for the local governements and the food industry. I speak French fluently and will be pleased to reply in French. I am American and acquired French nationality nearly 3 years ago.
This is a first for me, bloging that is. I'm not sure what to say. I usually know who I'm talking to, I don't know you as yet, and then I know what to say.
I'm doing this because it seems to be a good way to communicate with people who are interested in the things I am...food, culture, France and America...and the rest of the world.
Once I figure out how to use this machine I will put up some fotos and much more information about myself.
I will write artiles about what I do, where I go, what I eat and what I cook. I will be alking about the cooking classes I will be giving and my involvment in life in Burgundy and France. I am completely open to ay subject and will share my bibliographies on the subjects I've read.
I hope to create some interest simply because we share the same feelings about life on the planet today which needs a strong injection of humanism and responsibility.
A Bientôt,
Alex Miles